Mae Hong Son Loop

The most important reason for us to explore the nothern most part of Thailand was to do the infamous Mae Hong Son 600km loop by motorcycle. Boasting with over 1800 turns, hairpins and stunning scenery this is something not to be missed if riding is one of your passions. The loop is north west of Chiang Mai, which is where it starts and ends. There's a huge variety of motorcycles to be chosen from and they are priced very reasonably. We chose this 200cc Honda Phantom Custom, built exclusively in Thailand for its comfort, motorcycle feel (as opposed to scooter) and cheap price (~$15/day).

Day 1. Chiang Mai - Khun Klang

starting out on our epic journey, the helmets and jackets fit "just right".

riding our way out of Chiang Mai through the evening traffic.

Vathirathan waterfall was our first stop shortly after the entrance into the Doi Inthanon national park. This was a good surprise, stunning and not at all touristy, possibly because this was rather late in the day at sunset.

Day 2. Khun Klang - Mae Hong Son

 Our first overnight stop was in a small village Khun Klang. The village had only 2 accommodations options, camping and bungalows. We didn't have our tent with us and therefore this ended up being the most expensive place we stayed so far. The night was freezing cold but the morning rewarded us with amazing views from our own balcony. If you plan to stay here, we suggest you bring a tent.

View from our balcony of the Siriphum waterfall over the Royal Agricultural Society greenhouses.

It was rather cold to ride in the morning, especially since we were making it up to the highest point in Thailand. We knew that the highest point itself didn't have the best view, but since we were there anyways, we couldn't resist to ride up to it. Along the way some splendid vistas of the mountains first emerged.

Royal Chedis viewpoint, we had a long road ahead of us and didn't go in but afterward regretted it.

Our trusty stallion waiting to be fired up ...

 And there it was, the highest point... somewhat anticlimactic.

Next we made a rest stop for a bit of a hike into the surrounding scenery. The biggest leaf I've seen in my life.

Trekking among the hillside fields.

As we were trying to do a shortcut we stumbled upon a herd of buffalos, they did not look friendly. For a good 5 minutes we stared at each other in the eyes...noone moved.

Every turn of the road unveiled a new panorama.

We just couldn't stop for them all...

At one of the viewpoints, we stopped to get some tea.

After we passed Khun Yuam, the road became a series of sweeping fast racetrack curves which are a blast to ride. And before the final descent to Mae Hong Son we were rewarded with this viewpoint. We wondered, does this cat even know how lucky he is...

It was after sunset that we arrived in Mae Hong Son after a long day of continuous riding. It's a charming little town with a pond surrounded by guest houses and a night market. By then we were already craving some western food but didn't find it and had to stick with the local papaya salad (which Anna didn't like) and some Pad Thai for Slava (which was ok at best).

Part of the market was a craft one, and this lady was making scarves as we were passing by.

Day 3: Mae Hong Son - Pai

Our morning view from the balcony with Wat Chong Clang temple in the background.

Breakfast in the market, we got some finger foods. Tiny fried eggs...

and coconut pancakes served on banana leaves.

We did a short detour to the infamous Karen (longneck) village.

These beautiful and mysterious women were quiet and polite, selling the clothes they weaved.

 

The obstacles of life make kids in these secluded places very independent. This one was skillfully chopping meat with his knife. Made us stop and think about life's values and priorities.

Dogs are so mellow and sweet, and we haven't even heard one bark.

View of the Karen village.

Beautiful colorful tapestries.

On the way back from the village we crossed a bridge adjacent to a footbridge, long forgotten.

Back on the twisty road...

There was a long day ahead of us and we had to keep moving in order to make it to the next overnight stop before dawn. Sun was shining, roads were brilliant and surrounding scenery was out of this world. After being on the road for a while we  made a rest stop at the Fish Cave. Why it was named that way we were about to find out...

First, we saw 2 large fish in this stream that we were passing over the bridge. However, as we continued along, we discovered schools of these and many, many other fish, of different coloration and size. There was lettuce for sale as we approached the cave, and many tourists were feeding the fish with it. Surprisingly the fish was jumping out of the water for this lettuce.

The cave itself was  small depression in the rock wall filled with water and swimming fish. There was a statue of an old bearded Buddha on a made-up shrine.

Riding on, the road kept twisting and turning, keeping you on your toes for sharp hairpins and abrupt drops.

Landscapes straight out of Jurassic Park

Quick stop for some soup and local beer (only for the passenger :)

 

 

Another overpass with a beautiful panorama. We have never seen layers of mountains one behind another like this, bathed in the mist of dawn.

Finally we arrived in Pai, a small village popular tourist hub among backpackers. We stayed across the Pai river in a bamboo bungalow. The dinner was shared between the guests, which was a great way to get to talk to some interesting people.

Opening the windows in the morning.

View of our accommodations for the night.

Day 4: Pai - Chiang Mai

This was our last day on the road. The views were still stunning and all... but, it was not the same as before. We were over the "wow" stage. It was a very enjoying ride, fast in speed and slow in feel. Observing villages and fields as we were passing them by gave us time to reflect. I, (Anna), thought for a while about my father, of what he would think about my adventure, of how worried and excited at the same time he would be..  all I had was an imagination. I missed him as always, and I wanted to tell him: "..we are safe and careful, I am happy, I love you". What a day!

 

Anna got a hold on taking some great action photos while under way.

Our last stop on the road for lunch at a small store on the side of the road. There was a spirit house "san phra phum" built next to it. These are placed usually at the side of the property to contain the protecting spirits of the house. People place givings in form of food on these altars to keep the spirits content.

The lady serving us, spoke very good english and prepared some fried rice and vegetables for us.

The last stretch of road to Chiang Mai was uneventful and straight, giving us time to reflect on the epic journey behind us.

Anna first noticed this inventive urn and now i can't stop ranting how coll this is. It is an upcycled car tire turned inside out and stapled at the ends. It forms a really great and light trash bin. More and more we keep noticing how inventive these people are, repurposing objects into useful household items, objects that would be just trashed in the western world. This is something we should learn from them...












































Almost there, curves behind us, riding 100+ kph